I used to run around taking notes with my trusted Palm Tungsten E but found it clumsy for taking graphical notes and just scribbling around. Then I discovered Atoma note books in Manufactum's online shop:

I have been using it for over a year and it has transformed my note taking. The difference between Atoma and regular note books (especially Moleskine) is that they are modular and customizable.

The sheets are held together by aluminium rings so the note books can be opened completely without the annoying bending that occurs at the edges of sheets in spiral binders. The sheets can also be removed and re-inserted, turned around and so on. You can combine printed sheets of different content (e.g. college ruling, blank, math paper) in one notebook.

You can also print your own pages and use the Atoma hole puncher to insert these custom sheets in your note book. When you remove a sheet there is nothing left in the binding, an issue that annoyed me every time when I used spiral bound note books. You can also put A7 sized sheets and A5 sized sheets into an A4 binder because the binding is the same for all sizes.

The Atoma is incredibly customizable, reusable, and has a great, durable form factor. Best. Note taking. Ever.

Good riddance paper! Someday.

Meanwhile I have stacks of color pages I have to print. I am designing a few full-color books and that means proofing them on paper so I really need really cheap printing. Those spammy refill ink cartridges aren’t cheap or dependable enough.

After much research and trial and error I found that the easiest cheapest method of printing is a continuous ink supply built into a printer. Once you are set up you can buy ink inexpensively by the pint, quart or gallon. A pint bottle of ink will cost no more than one of those itty bitty 1 oz. cartridges and will last hundreds of times as long.

A continuous ink system runs tubes from the refillable ink containers into the moving ink head in the printer. The printer operates normally. You simply refill the outside container with bulk ink and keep printing on the same originally installed cartridges. There are a number of outfits that will sell you a kit to do this yourself. I’ve heard of occasional satisfaction with this method. But installing this gear can get really messy and hairy. You are on your own if it does not work correctly. And some printer models are easier to retrofit than others.

I opted for a more elegant and not that much more expensive option: have the pros do it. Cobra Systems will install their continuous ink supply system on twelve different brand new Epson printer models. For about $50-100 more than the cost of the new printer, they will ship you a ready-to-use modified new printer with refillable ink containers already installed. Because this modification voids Epson’s warranty, they provide their own warranty. They guarantee it will work. Period. In fact, in my experience Cobra’s service is amazing. They will make absolutely sure your system is working to your satisfaction no matter what, even if they have swap it out at their cost.

Because Epson (and all the other printer manufacturers) discourage these kinds of workarounds of their pricey inks, there are some kludgy maintenance steps (like squeezing a bypass switch every now and then) needed to fool the cartridges into going beyond their programmed death. But these inconveniences are minor.

The Epson printers work as advertised. You can get a new 8x11 Epson Workforce 30 installed out of the box with a bulk ink system for $100. I've been using a new Epson Workforce 1100 with the Cobra-modified system installed for $280. It's a serious large-format general purpose printer for up to 11 x 17 inch pages, with 5 huge ink tanks. After about 30 minutes of easy set up, purging the system of air from shipping, I was ready to print. I now churn out hundreds of 11 x 17 full color pages for a few dollars worth of ink. I saved the extra cost of the continuous ink system in the first week of use. (It’s shocking how much ink is consumed when a printer cleans its heads.) You can get long-lasting pigment inks, or high-heat inks, or plain old dye inks. Half a liter (a pint) of dye ink goes for $27. Compare that to the thimblefull in most ink cartridges.

Important caveat: You need to situate the printer in a work place you don’t mind getting stained with spots of color because even though the system is well designed to minimize spills, the inks are not sealed and sooner or later you WILL spatter some ink at some point. Count on it. Also, since the ink tanks are velcro'd to the side of the printer, these units won't win any style prizes if that is important to you.

For most folks a bulk system is overkill. If all you need is infrequent home printing, I still recommend the previously reviewed HP OfficeJet K5400 as the cheapest per page cost for an off-the-shelf device. But if you are doing large volume printing, saying proofing a book, or running a T-shirts business (Cobra’s main customers), or printing flyers and posters, then I recommend Cobra’s continuous ink system and their fantastic support. (You can also send them your own Epson printer and have them add their continuous ink supply.)

As a long-time aficionado of office supplies, I feel qualified to review this wonderful new (to me, at least) product. These über-Post-its measure 4" x 4" and are a different kettle of fish entirely from others I've used. Namely their Lilliputian 1.5" x 2", 2" x 3", and 3" x 3" brethren. These have an entirely different heft and presence under your pencil or pen or Sharpie.

And I like that these notes are lined, because I'm now using them as an aide-mémoire regarding what's upcoming each day on my blog Book Of Joe. There are just enough lines on them for my eight daily posts and their working titles.

Finally, by combining them with an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie, I've found note-taking heaven on Earth.

For night owls who don't want to wake a sleeping partner, this window-shaped LED reading light is indispensable. I've been using the wedge for ten years, turning pages into the wee hours without rousing my husband.

While most reading lamps shed ambient light, the wedge illuminates the page with a bright, diffuse but localized light panel. It would be as handy in a darkened theater as in bed. My model is battery powered (the 2.0 is rechargeable), but I haven't had any need to replace them quite yet.

I am a fan of mechanical pencils, but continue to be underwhelmed with the minuscule erasers they provide with them (almost as if they expect you not to make a mistake?). I'm tired of buying overpriced refills, and am more interested in finding something that could be used in addition to the pencil.

What's the best pencil eraser out there? Are there significant differences amongst the materials?

-- oliver h

Mars plastic erasers are the best. Abrasive erasers tear up the paper surface too much, and unless you have mastered pressing really hard without breaking the lead a mechanical pencil doesn't draw that deep anyway.

The plastic erasers can also be cleaned with a wet thumb or a rub on scrap paper for neat work. I always find the "gritty" or "gummy" erasers get so dirty you spend half your time rubbing out their own mess. The Mars compound is stiff enough that corners can be used for fine work, or large areas erased with the flat end. The dirty, used portions just roll off as you use it and are cleanly blown/swiped away. I like the idea of putty/moldable erasers, but they get filthy, crumbly and horrible if kept in a pocket or bag.

I've been testing Pentel's Sharp Kerry mechanical pencil for over a year now, and I'm ready to give it an enthusiastic thumbs up. I'm a graphic designer by trade and, in addition to everyday use, I find it to be an excellent tool for sketching out ideas on a tracing paper pad. (I'm partial to Bienfang Parchment 100 Fine Tracing Paper.)

This is a precision-made instrument: fairly heavy, made from metal and plastic. It's unique in that it features a removable cap that when placed on the other end still functions to advance the lead with a click of the button. You pull the cap off and click it back onto the opposite end of the pencil; an action that makes me feel as though I'm about to draw something brilliant.

I found it by searching around for a mechanical pencil that was well-balanced, moderately heavy, and handsome to look at. Do the same and you're likely to find the Sharp Kerry is mentioned by more than a few pencil aficionados as one of the best.

For years I have used two-ring European-style binders from Leitz simply because it was very difficult to find a quality binder sized for US standard paper (8-1/2" x 11"). However, I recently switched to Naked Binders, and I find them remarkably well made and thought out.

Unlike the readily available, poorly made, vinyl binder with the covers only bonded at the seams, the paper and book cloth covers on these are fully bonded to the board underneath. The result is that a minor tear does not cause the whole thing to fall apart, and they feel like they are built to last. The D-rings are attached to the back cover rather than the spine so the pages lie flat and index tabs line up making a neat and clean presentation.

The fact that they are environmentally responsible and made in the USA are bonuses. I bought a couple as a test case and quickly ordered more to replace all the binders in my home and office.

Recently, the previously reviewed Derringer Wallet Pen caught my eye. The fellow recommending it said he found it really handy, and that he always had something to write with since he'd started carrying this pen.

I got my ruler out to see if it would clip into my wallet and found that the 4" long stainless steel Derringer wallet pen would protrude from my 3.88" wallet. That is unlike the pen I've already got in my wallet, which is almost invisible unless you know it's there. I use — and have done so for many years — a Swiss Army Knife pen refill, Victorinox model number 30422.

It costs $2.95. It's a replacement pen for the one that comes as original equipment in Swiss Army Knives. 91mm (2.75") long, with a gray, curved top that fits snugly into the body of a Swiss Army Knife, these handy little pens come in blue or black ink. There's also an even smaller (2" long) version that fits the smaller, key-chain size knives. I don't recommend it because it's very difficult to grasp and write with.

Now, you are not going to want to copy out Moby Dick with my little pen, but for quick notes, sudden flights of fancy or inspiration, phone numbers, and the like, you can't beat it. And I always have a pen. So often no one does, and I don't think I do, until I realize hey, I do have one. People smirk and scoff but they're very glad when they see it writes just fine. A life-saver.

-- Joseph Stirt

Years ago, I lost my Swiss Army knife and when I went to replace it, I found a model I hadn't seen before. Instead of the toothpick, this one had a retractable ballpoint pen!

A pen? I'm excited about a pen?

Yes. After years and years with this (and having to replace it when I went to the airport and forgot to take the knife off my keychain), the pen is the tool I use the most. I have a Fisher Space Bullet pen but it's not always in my pocket. The Swiss Army knife is.

The pen is small and not very comfortable but always-there trumps comfort in this case. I use the pen often, but not for long, so the ink lasts a very long time. Refills are available, if a bit hard to find.

The model with the pen is not available everywhere, so you may need to search around a bit. It's also a bit of a conversation piece -- hardly anyone has seen it before and they always want one.

-- Moe Rubenzahl

PocketMod is a website and freeware program that helps make 8-paged mini-booklets and organizers out of a single sheet of paper. You can make them online by selecting from a series of templates of what goes onto each page, including calendars, graph paper, to-do lists, etc. Then print out your design on a sheet of regular 8.5"x11" paper, follow folding instructions and voila!

You can also make your own templates by downloading the PDF converter application. Or, search around forums or Google to find templates that others have posted. I have seen some that automatically sync them to different calendar applications, and someone has even created a PocketMod that troubleshoots OS X computer problems. The possibilities are limited by your own creativity.

I carry a bunch on me, all within easy reach so I can just whip 'em out and record whatever idea before I forget. I even set up ones for particular projects so I can share them with clients. I hold them together with a rubber band in my back pocket, and then when I'm done with the project I just bind them all together.

This tiny ceramic blade makes opening plastic packaging and cutting coupons a cinch. It's tiny enough to slip into your travel kit (and it's safe for air travel) and can be used to open all manner of packages. To round it all off it seems difficult/impossible to injure yourself with it and it's magnetic so you can stick on your fridge or PC.

-- Chris Hecht

This tool is great for clipping newspaper articles and any other paper related media. With a bit more effort it slices through tough scissor-resistant plastic packaging. Just be sure to cut paper on a surface you don't mind getting scratched as this can easily damage wood and glass.

-- Oliver Hulland

I once left a box of important files out in the rain and wasted a lot of time reviving them. Ever since then I have been digitizing all paper in my life and then tossing the paper. This nirvana is possible using the auto-feed Fujitsu ScanSnap S1500.

I used to scan documents on my HP scanner-printer-copier, which is mind-numbingly slow and had a buggy driver that crashes my computer, forcing a reboot about 25% of the time I use it. Now with the Fujitsu ScanSnap I set a stack of up to 50 two-sided documents into the sheet feeder and it whips through all 100 pages in two and a half minutes. I was honestly surprised that my laptop was capable of accepting data at
such a fast pace. This scanner doesn't hog a lot of precious desktop real estate, either. It's surprisingly small -- about 11.5 inches wide and 5 inches deep, with the feeder and output flaps folded in.

I configured my SnapScan to send scanned documents as PDF files to my Evernote account, although this is not required. (If you don't know about the previously reviewed Evernote, it's an outstanding online service that accepts images, sound files, notes, scans of documents, and just about anything else you want to throw in it. It saves these files on your computer and on Evernote's servers so you don't have to worry about losing your data. It also runs a character recognition routine on your documents so you can search for them later.) This first few times I scanned to Evernote, I carefully checked to make sure that both sides of each page had been scanned correctly. The SnapScan software discards the sides that are blank and has a sensor that detects when two pages go through the feeder at the same time (which rarely
happens).

Evernote's character recognition is almost flawless. That means my documents can be found by entering keywords into Evernote's search field from my Evernote phone app. The other day I had to search for a mortgage document from my files while I was away from home and I pulled it up on my phone in less than a minute. It is so easy to scan
stuff, and its "transcription" of text is so good, that I now scan business cards, menus, any paper document I might want to look at again. Then I throw the paper out.

Since I got the ScanSnap, I've been processing about 100 pages of documents per day. The software straightens out the images and orients them right-side up. The only time it jammed was when I tried to stack too many of the water-damaged documents through it. The downside, if you can call it that, is the high price tag: it's $419 on Amazon. But when I think about the hours and hours of time wasted waiting for my HP flatbed scanner to creak across a document, the price seems very low.

I am finally on my way to a fully paperless office.

I've used a PageKeeper bookmark for several years and love it. Once in place it stays put. You don't have to do anything until you've finished reading whatever book you've put it in. It keeps your place for you without you having to move it, or dog-ear the page. Best of all it won't fall out of your book, so no more flipping through trying to find where you were when stopped reading.

I've never seen anything similar to PageKeeper, and being a life long bookworm I've seen and used A LOT of bookmarks. I actually have two that I use, as it's not uncommon for me to be reading multiple books at once. When I'm not using both, I keep one in my purse in case I pick up a book to read while I'm out.

Japanese pens are simply the coolest pens on the planet. Whether for writing notes, manga, or drawing, Japanese pens are the best. The finest are .18mm while the widest are brush pens that will allow you to practice your kanji. They also come in colors that will never see the inside of a Staples or and Office Depot.

The best place to get them is a web site called Jetpens.com. Given the exotic character of the merchandise, the prices are fine, but the extras, such as Japanese stationary, erasers, pen holders, and notebooks are simply amazing. Where else can you buy erasers that are also a game of balancing the erasers in an ark on your desk? And the colors, ranging from yellows and pinks to the office standards, are just awesome.

In the end, it is a very cheap way to gain a bit of understanding of a very different culture, while also getting some really cool pens.

--Michael Aaron Dennis

Like many others I have an unhealthy obsession with office supplies, especially mechanical pencils. I'm always looking for the perfect pencil. JetPens.com offers a great selection of mostly Japanese pens, pencils, highlighters and supplies. Many of the name brands they offer are familiar in the U.S. (Pilot, Pentel) but you won't find any of these at your local office supply store. JetPens also carries the hard-to-find Uniball Paper Clipper and Clips - a reusable paper binding system.

-- Amy Kahle

This is the only pen I have owned that is suitable for writing technical notes. It has a .5mm point, which allows me to write small details such as subscripts and fractions. It is a ballpoint so it doesn't bleed which is an annoyance I've encountered when writing small details with other pens. It doesn't gum up as my Zebra ballpoints tended to do and so is suitable for drawing diagrams. It can write continuously without drying up and flows well over the paper. Most .5mm pens I've used dry up after writing for a while and are so sharp that they end up scratching the paper.

It's also affordable. Unfortunately, while it only costs $1 a pen there is only one supplier in the US (that I'm aware of) and you have to buy twelve pens at a time.

You can buy it in black, blue, red, purple, or green with a .5mm point. You can also get it in black with a .7mm point.

The Livescribe is a digital pen that writes normally while simultaneously digitizing what is being written and recording audio. What this pen allows me to do is to synchronize the taking of notes with the audio of the event. As I go through a brain storming session with a customer I can pay attention to the interaction at hand, draw on paper, record the audio, and then at a later time go back and review the notes in-sync with the audio. It also frees me up to take fewer notes at the time of the initial meeting. This allows me to concentrate on the meeting at hand and then go back and review the audio while filling in the blanks as needed or create a list of follow up questions.

When you dock your pen with a computer (Windows / Mac), it transfers the recordings (audio and writing) to the computer thereby making a digitized backup of your handwritten notes as well as the audio of the meeting. This content is searchable and printable (in PDF). After meetings I sometimes spend 5 minutes docking the pen, "PDF-ing" out my notes and emailing them to folks for immediate action.

I've been using this pen for about 8+ months now and I believe it's a very cool tool. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to capture information without a computer, but who still needs the added flexibility, beauty and brilliance of being able to port the data to a computer for expanded use.

The Livescribe uses special "dot paper" and pen cartridges that can be a little pricey, but no more so than Moleskine quality notebooks. The special "dot paper" is needed for the pen to digitize what has been written in ink into a digital format. Livescribe offers "college ruled" 8 x 11 notebooks, and Moleskine style notepads. So no matter what you want to write on, you're pretty much covered.

I usually carry a bunch of pens in a leather pocket protector (a beautiful, inexpensive thing from John C. Robert's Leather Works). My wife despairs when we go someplace nice and I'm carrying all this stuff. So I wanted a small pen that would fit unobtrusively in my pocket. The previously reviewed Derringer Pen is just a little too long for my wallet.

This Ohto pen, just a bit smaller, is ideal. It's only 3.1 inches closed, 5.1 inches open, and fits perfectly in the fold of my wallet.

Before I start a new painting, I usually draw what I want in Adobe Illustrator, and then transfer a printout of that drawing to canvas or board to paint. I've tried opaque projectors, but the image is faint (at least on the el-cheapo version I use) and I don't really have room to set it up. I've also tried using a piece of paper that I've rubbed pencil or charcoal on, but that produces a blurry line.

Like an idiot, it wasn't until a couple of days ago that I considered the possibility that there might be a transfer paper for artists. Of course, there is one. It's called Saral Wax-Free Transfer Paper, and it works like a dream. It comes in five different colors, but I can get away with blue and white. It leaves a clear, thin line that erases easily and doesn't mess up the color of the paint I use. I'm already hooked on it for life.

If you send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to Saral, they'll send you free samples in all five colors.

Copic markers are Japanese-made markers that have been used for years by Manga and other artists in Japan. Though generally relegated to that purpose, they're a very functional medium, an alcohol-based, refillable marker that can also be used with an airbrush. They are initially expensive to buy, but because they are refillable and so versatile, over time they prove to be less expensive than Prismacolor markers. Because they are alcohol based, they are also blendable; similar to watercolor in application, but much more convenient.

Copic markers are somewhat limited in application, and not something generally as versatile as acrylic- or oil-based media. The advantage in my case is mostly portability. For anything larger than an 8 1/2X11" page, they wouldn't be practical. Think of them as more for cartooning than fine art. I do a lot of caricaturing and figure drawing, for which they work well.

I do a lot of sketching and art of various kinds and in various mediums, such as pencil, chalk, Copic markers and ink. For this I need a good quality paper, but don't want to spend a lot of money; I don't want to feel guilty doing throwaway work. The best buy I've found is Mead's Academie 70-sheet Spiral Bound notebook, and I've been using it for the past two years.

These sketchbooks are ideal for several reasons. First are cost and availability: They're inexpensive and can be purchased practically anywhere, from office supply stores to Walmart and Target. The paper quality is good enough for frameable art. The sturdy notebooks have a solid pressboard back, so I generally don't need an easel, and the pages are perforated for easy removal. There's a two-sided pocket, so I can remove and stow keepers. I find the pocket helps me keep track of specific renderings, too. Because these sketchbooks are inexpensive, I can use a few concurrently and switch back and forth between different mediums. The paper quality is great for the price, too. It works well for Copic markers, especially, giving a true color rendering. The pages are non-yellowing (acid-free), as well.

For comparison, Strathmore drawing pads have more size options, but at 40 to 50 sheets per book, the cost per sheet is higher, and the Strathmore's pages aren't perforated for easy removal.

Keith Smith published Non-Adhesive Binding in 1990. At the time there were few other bookbinding manuals in print (and in comparison with other crafts, there still aren’t many). Books by Arthur Johnson, Edith Diehl and Douglas Cockerell offered instruction according to specific craft tradition. These manuals told how to bind a book with very little room for creativity other than decorative choices (what color would you like the leather on the spine to be?). The books were hard to find and contained long lists of tools and desirable equipment that a bookbinder should have.

Keith Smith’s book is completely different. He illustrates basic techniques that can be used to create a wide variety of bindings. He encourages the binder to explore how books move, how structural variations influence that movement, and how both movement and structure can lead the binder to fully engage the creative intent of the author’s work. He is even more enthusiastic about the possibilities for binders who are the creators of content or those who we now call book artists.

I started bookbinding in 1991 and Keith Smith’s Non-Adhesive Bookbinding was the first manual I ever bought. As Smith required very few tools and almost no equipment, I was able immediately to start making dozens of books based on his instructions. His drawings of often complex sewing patterns sometimes confused me (and sometimes still do!), but after having now tried to illustrate bookbinding or repair techniques of my own, I’m amazed at how much he conveys so clearly.

It has become more apparent to me with time and experience that his book is a deeper resource than it may first appear. While his methods are simple and often result in astonishingly modern looking bindings, his book is profoundly informed by historical methods and models. Unlike a bookbinding manual that represents a defined tradition, he uses the knowledge of earlier binders to encourage new binders to create their own paths.

Smith’s Non-Adhesive Binding may be almost 20 years old, but it remains a vital resource for bookbinders, book artists, and anyone who wants to creatively understand the book form.

I like to have a few essential tools with me at all times: my Swiss Army knife, a keychain LED flashlight, a pocket notebook and a pen for scribbling notes whenever inspiration strikes.

I'd searched a long time for a pen that was small enough to carry around in my pocket, yet comfortable to write with and reliable enough to work every time I needed it. I finally found it with the Fisher Space Pen.

Everyone has heard of the legendary Space Pen, which was developed for the space program and writes upside down, under water and in extreme temperatures. They make many different varieties of the Space Pen, but the most useful and elegant is the Bullet (pictured alongside Uniball).

The Fisher Bullet is in two pieces: the actual pen, and a cap that fits on the back of the pen to make a full-size writing instrument. When closed, it makes a compact, tight-fitting, gasket-sealed capsule that easily fits in your pocket. It comes with a shirt pocket clip that can be removed, so it's less obtrusive in your pants pocket.

You can get it in chrome, but the matte black finish is so much cooler.

-- Curtis Galloway

I needed a pen that would fit comfortably with my pocket-sized Moleskine. I tried a few different things, but this was the one that worked best. It's compact, durable, writes well, doubles in size for writing, looks stylish and even writes upside down.

-- Scott Berkun

Fisher Stowaway Space Pen

After losing two (expensive) Fisher Bullet Space Pens, I stumbled across their significantly less expensive Stowaway. They're small, available in three styles, with or without a clip on the cap, and with a stylus on the opposite end of the tip. Three colors, too: black, red and blue.

--Eric Rosenberg

I always liked the idea of Paul Fisher's bullet-shaped Space Pens but at around $20 always felt they were not worth the benefits (writing anywhere, upside down, any temperature, under water, over grease, etc.). Now they sell a tiny (4 x 0.4 x 0.4 in.; 5.1 in. in writing mode) pretty-much-weightless tube pen called the Stowaway with the famous ink refill, for about half the price of the Bullet. I bought a mess of them and threw one in every jacket.

-- Vince Crisci

Anyone doing technical or design work has burned through reams of graph paper. I'm a designer, and I use Whitelines to do technical drawings in accurate scale, which are then turned into 3-D models and die tooling diagrams. Whitelines is the best graph paper I have ever worked with.

The concept is simple and powerful. Ordinary graph paper is paper with a graph of lines printed on it in a light color, often blue or gray. Whitelines is paper with a very light gray grid of squares printed on it. The graph is unprinted, hence, white lines.

This is genius. Pen strokes, and even pencil, are startlingly clear against the background. The distracting visual noise of a printed graph is gone entirely, while retaining the precision and ability to see scale, which is graph paper's reason for being.

I've been using Whitelines extensively for the past few months, mostly for technical drafting on the MakerBeam project, an open source metal building kit like Meccano for the Arduino set. The grid is 0.5 centimeter pitch, perfect for working on a metric standard. With ordinary graph paper, pencil lines are close in color weight to the lines themselves. When scanning pencil marks on ordinary graph paper, the pencil lines often vanish completely. With Whitelines, I can scan a pencil sketch, if I'm satisfied with it, without having to go back over it with pen.

Available in A4, A5 and pocket sizes, as tablets, spiral bound, perfect and hardbound, both lined and graph. Better graph paper makes better drawings, and this is genuinely better graph paper.

Until a couple of years ago I had struggled with different inexpensive paper cutters, but I kept finding myself going to Kinko's and using the cutters there. Then I got smart and jotted down the brand name, Dahle 550 Rolling Trimmer Paper Cutter, and bought one online.

What I appreciate most about this cutter is that I never have to change blades, or deal with dull blades, because it's self-sharpening. The steel rotary blade contained within the plastic safety housing moves across a stationary blade that extends the length of the cutting platform. This action hones the rotary blade, which remains constantly sharp. It's also set up for wall mounting, which is ideal in my home office layout.

One of the Dahle's downsides is that the plastic plate that holds the paper down got dinged up -- keep away from kids -- causing the blade to run off the track if I'm not careful. Also, the next one I buy will be a larger model: The 550 is meant to cut up to 14 1/8-inch paper, but it's awkward cutting anything over 8x10.

I've tried lots of different small notebooks. Field Notes are the best ones I've found, small and thin enough to really have with you all the time, in a shirt or pants pocket. I've carried them for over a year, and my small notebook is used every day for ideas, shopping lists, account numbers/passwords (coded, of course), design sketches, references.

I am now laminating the covers with simple self-seal lamination sheet to lengthen the life of the cardboard cover.

I love leather, but all the leather and Moleskine notebooks (previously reviewed on Cool Tools) are simply too thick for me to carry all the time in a pocket, which is where the Field Notes pads have made the difference.

The PencilPull, a couple of dollars worth of plastic, metal and string, have made life as a carpenter and woodworker a whole lot easier. I reach for a pencil dozens of times every workday and no matter how much I've tried, I just haven't been able to develop a steady habit of putting the pencil back in the same place each time, whether it's in my shirt, apron or behind my ear.

In the morning, I clip the PencilPull to my shirt pocket, tool apron or the collar of a t-shirt, where it stays all day providing instant, trouble-free pencil access. The pencil is held in a soft plastic cone by friction, sort of like a Chinese finger puzzle, and the retractable chain gives you about 18 inches. The soft holder firmly grips both round and carpenter pencils firmly and -- in the year and a half I've been using it -- I have yet to break the string or return mechanism; that's saying something. Whenever I am absorbed with the task at hand and need a pencil, the smooth flow of work never stops for a frustrated hunt through the shop or work site. I own thousands of dollars of expensive sophisticated hand and power tools, but really value the utility of this little gem.

Why not simply tie a chain to a pencil and safety pin it to your shirt? Fair question. A pencil on a string would flop around and get in my way, even a loop of string hanging out of my pocket would get caught on things. The PencilPull retracts the string so I don't have to think about putting the pencil anywhere. The pencil pull does that itself.

After elementary school, I didn't use pencils much -- until I started blogging. I keep my list of posts on a small notepad and I do so in pencil because the time and day of my posts change constantly. I'd always been a big fan of standard Dixons, but recently discovered their Tri-Conderoga. Unlike a standard-sized pencil in the vein of the previously-reviewed Derwent 3B, the Tri-Conderoga has a triangular shape and an increased girth, which make it nicely ergonomic, relaxing in the hand and very satisfying to use. After several weeks of daily use, I like using them even more.The satiny finish is lagniappe.

One negative: It's so large it doesn't fit in my Panasonic battery-powered sharpener. However, when you buy a box of 12, Dixon supplies a larger-bore hand-held sharpener. Bonus: when it gets shorter as you use/sharpen it, the pencil handles much better and is less annoying than a stubby regular pencil. Thus, I tend to use these longer before breaking in a new one.

The Kuru Toga is a self-sharpening mechanical pencil that solves a problem that's inherent with normal mechanical pencils. After just a couple of lines of writing with a typical mechanical pencil, the lead becomes a blunt irregular chisel shape, leading to clumsier and more smeary writing. Experienced pencil users try to counteract this by rotating their pencil every few words, a tactic that works very imperfectly.

The Kuru Toga, however, writes as precisely and evenly as a high quality gel pen by automatically counteracting this problem. An internal ratchet mechanism rotates the lead minutely with every stroke you make, constantly sharpening and rounding the lead against the paper. The resulting writing is noticeably more legible and can be much finer than with a standard pencil - ideal for tasks like coding, diagramming, annotating and general note taking.

The Kuro Toga is not retractable, but it is highly ergonomic, and my 0.5mm specimen (the Kuru Toga also comes in 0.3mm) seems never to suffer from broken leads (I've used both HB and 2B leads). Looking at my notebooks, I've written about 150 A4 pages with about 30,000 words and diagrams. No sign of wear. It's surprisingly cheap for being the best pencil I've ever found.

*this item is and out of stock, frequently

I'm an aircraft owner and use this very powerful LED-powered pen during night flying, but also while traveling on commercial flights and mostly at odd times: crosswords, fishing for something in the car at night, etc. The lighting and ink are independently controlled, so in addition to being effective, it's easy to use: the button on top is on/off for the light and the pen rotates to retract the ink. I've had some promotional-type LED pens in the past, but the button cells burn out and then it's difficult to replace them. This pen runs on a single AAA cell, which is easy to find and replace. The pen also comes with an extra battery and ink cartridge for $20 (with shipping) -- not too bad.

With its built-in sharpener, the previously-reviewed leadholder is useful, however, the Alvin Lead Pointer is the best way to keep this type of pencil sharpened. I am an architect and use these pencils every day. I've had this sharpener for more than ten years and it still works like new. The pointer is small, making it ideal to hold in your hand while rotating your lead holder around the pointer. Because your two hands are working together, I find I have more control and there are much fewer broken leads. The cutting head is sharp and lasts for a long time. It only takes a couple spins and your lead is needle sharp. Maintenance and clean-up is a snap. Take the top off the body and dump the graphite shavings into your trash and you are done If you do break your lead in the pointer, just remove the top and tap it on the inside edge of your trash can to clear the broken pieces. Lead pointers can be messy because of the fine graphite dust, but my pointer has never leaked the dust onto my desk. I have used many different types of pointers from desk mounted to ones mounted on the top of an electric eraser. The desk mounted pointers tend to break leads easily, since you are moving your lead holder in a circular motion around a pointer fixed to your desk, thus you may move in a direction that is not compatible to the pointer and will snap your lead. The electric eraser type is good, but it does not stay sharp for very long. It's also difficult to empty the graphite shavings and jams when you break your lead inside it. This pointer really is the best way to keep you lead sharp! If you work in an office, you may want to buy two -- because it is so small and useful, your pointer just might grow legs.

Since I began using these notepads eight months ago, I have almost stopped using my expensive PDA. The pages have a carbonless copy feature that allows me to leave one copy in the book and use the post-it style second copy wherever it is needed. Since the notebooks are slightly larger than a business card (3 x 3.5 inches), it is just the right size to fit in a wallet. It goes with me everywhere, stashed in my credit card wallet along with a space pen that fits in the crease of the wallet.

I always snap the point off regular pencils and mechanical pencils, so this is the pencil I've always wanted. Commonplace among draftsmen and technical drawers, the Staedtler holds 2mm leads, which do not break under pressure. I use mine all day. It's simple to retract and the recess in the removable push button also doubles as a sharpener (see below image). Remove the push button and there is a hole you stick the lead into. The lead gets very sharp and you can sharpen anywhere, anytime without having to remember to bring along a sharpener.

It has become my everyday pencil -- the only thing I write with unless I am behind a keyboard or must use a pen. I don't do any drafting or fine art applications, though I do sometimes sketch network diagrams (I am an intermediate-level sys admin). I also use the pencil for journal writing. The size of the lead really allows for a lot of flexibility in the line width. The pencil never fails, has a good weight, and I find I can hold it very precisely. The texture of the barrel is rough, almost like a nail file or cheese grater. Some people might not like the feel, but the pencil doesn't slip when wet.

I use a soft lead generally and find it needs sharpening one or more times a day. The sharpening can be a bit messy, but tapping it against a wastepaper basket takes care of the extra graphite dust. I still inevitably get graphite powder on my shirt, but it washes out without staining, so I don't really care. Also, it takes some practice to get comfortable with the system. At first the lead comes flying out, so you have to get used to holding the pencil a few centimeters above the paper and releasing the lead to the right amount. It works really well once you get it.

I've looked at other leadholders. If I saw a nicer designed one (i.e. a Parker or a Schaeffer) I might be tempted to get one. Part of what I like about the Staedler is the price and durability. One pencil and a year's supply of lead costs me about $10 at Utrecht art supply. I've lost and given away a few but haven't had any break or wear out.

I've been using Levenger's products for about 10 years, most notably their Circa notebooks. The ring-based binding allows not only quick removal and replacement of pages, but also a nice mix and match format for a variety of sheets, including ruled, blank, grid, address book, calendar, and more. I have a couple leather covers that I change around a bit to reduce wear on the notebooks. I tend to walk around with a normal junior size Circa notebook (about 5"x8") with pages of several types inside, including little contact information cards, 3x5s, etc. Sometimes I'll take a page out and offset it by one ring so it sticks out above the others to denote a new section (though I believe they have all kinds of dividers and such now). The rings themselves, though plastic, are sturdy and heavy -- notably better than the Rollabind notebook. The paper is a fairly heavy stock with good absorption and a great feel when writing on it with either rollerballs or fountain pens. The line printing is subtle but clear and it comes in a variety of layouts, though I tend to stick with the Columbia note taking system layout (with a column down the left-hand side), which used to be their only offering. They also sell paper in larger packs of 300, so I tend to keep a couple reams on hand. The hole puncher from Levenger is also a well-machined thing.

I can't really go back to normal notebooks. Hard-bound notebooks don't lay flat. Even with a spiral notebook with double-ring wiring I rarely find one with a high enough paper quality to suit my tastes. Nevertheless, there are a couple downsides (I'm not a complete sycophant). If you "work" a page too much in the binding (and it really has to be quite a lot) the little tabs will wear a bit and without the strength of being sandwiched between other pages, it can be a bit less secure in the bindings. A small price, but I've had pages that I repeatedly go back to fall out. Also, the diameter of the rings restricts the width of the notebook to something close to 5/8 of an inch while the rings stick out a bit. However, you can buy bigger rings. The Circa was the first and only disc-based removable/replaceable page binding I'd ever seen. Though there are a couple competitors now (like the Rollabind), I really find Levenger's product line second to none. I do flinch at the price when I click "checkout," but I'm always vindicated when I open the box.

-- Mike Wilson

I've been using various Circa products since their inception. The real value of the Circa notebooks is that I don't have to buy many of the notebooks any more. I have enough binders and pieces that now I typically purchase only the refills and create my own notebooks designed for specific uses, mixing the different formats (lined, grid, blank). I have a couple 5-subject letter-sized notebooks, the junior and letter-size single-subject notebooks, and I also carry a Circa PDA in my coat pocket for noting things I find while I'm out. I can use the lined pages for normal notetaking and writing, insert a grid page for a table or a blank page for a mind map. I generally start with about ten lined pages and five blank and grid pages in a notebook and then arrange them as needed. Being a minimalist, I like to start with the least number of sheets to do the job and then add as needed to the capacity of the rings. There have been only two problems I had with them over time: 1) the paper is twice as thick as normal note paper, so the 5-subject notebook simply weighed too much, and 2) I tended to wear out the paper connections in one section before reaching other sections. However, since switching from the 5-subject to the junior and letter single-subject notebooks, I don't have the weight or wear problems.

-- Gary Scott

Reader-diners know the pain of trying to balance a thick book and a meal without losing your page or spilling food. As a regular lunchtime reader, I went searching online for a tool that would allow for comfortable hands-free reading -- and eureka! Cleverly designed, this diminutive device is replete with intelligent features: a little pull-out stand supports the book, two sturdy clips hold the pages in place, a pair of pull-out legs holds the book upright on a table. Best of all, spring-loaded page holders on either end make for simple page-turning without the need for repositioning the text; you just grip both holders with one hand and squeeze. I've used the BookGem with a variety of types of books -- everything from thick hardcovers to slim-ish paperbacks -- and it's adapted marvelously. And because it folds down to a pocket-size rectangle, I can easily tuck it in with my book wherever I go.

This mechanical pencil has the same protective, retractable tip as the Vanishing Point, but it's only $6, half the price. I have been using them for about 2 years. The pencil has a good weight to it - not too heavy and not too light . It uses 3 lead fills and is available in .5 or .7mm. There is also a twist mechanism for the eraser, that helps protect it when not in use.

I am a student in a masters program and read numerous texts at the same time. For years I used sticky plastic flags, but they are not reusable. These thin, folding book darts are flush with the book, and unlike the plastic flags, don't get bent or torn out while in my book bag. They also solve the waste problem. With an order of a hundred I am able to mark all of my books with passages that I need to remember for class discussions. Once done with that class, I simply pull them out and then use them for another class.

An avid scrapbooker in our family vehemently recommended these acid-free pens about five years ago. Ever since, we've used them to label all of our albums and prints, both new and old. If you're going to take enough care to use an acid-free album or you plan to send your photos overseas for scanning, then you need one of these; otherwise, in time, the acid from, say, a standard ballpoint will cause degradation (yellowing, brittleness, etc.). The fine tip allows for small, really crisp penmanship (we use the 05 model which produces a .45mm line). They're advertised as fade proof, non-bleeding and waterproof. I can attest to the first two (we take great care to keep our stuff dry *knock wood*). One caveat: To avoid smudges, let the ink sit about 10-15 seconds before putting the photo back into an album.

I have used Moleskine journals for years, but more often than not, by the time I've filled a journal, the spine is torn and in tatters. And because I write the journal number and date on the spine before putting my filled journals on my library shelf, this is a problem. The obvious solution is a nice leather slip-on cover, but I couldn't find one that met my specs. In particular, I wanted a cover that wouldn't interfere with use of the signature Moleskine elastic band or rear ticket pocket. And above all, it had to be sturdy and elegant, just like my otherwise-stout Moleskine. So I turned to Steve Derricott at Gfeller Casemakers, who made me a custom cover that works great, and now Gfeller is offering a slip-on cover that meets my high specs and more (note: I have NO financial interest in any of this, of course). The cover is made with the attention to detail that has made Gfeller a legend among geologists and field scientists for their extraordinary leather field cases. It is hand-cut and sewn with waxed Egyptian cotton thread, which is tap-set so that it will never, ever break. Steve makes the covers in English Kip leather, the same leather used in his field cases. Kip is a pale tan when new, but over time, exposure to light and the oils from your hand will cause it to darken. The process starts almost immediately, but continues over many years, all the while the cover gets darker and richer in tone, until in a decade or so, it will be a deep rich, mahogany. Because it has no dyed surface, the Kip cover will wear better than, say, a black dyed cover. Scratches and bumps will soften into the overall patina of the cover, adding to its character and giving it a wonderful feel like a fine old saddle -- or of course one of Gfeller's field cases after years of use in the field. (He does offer other leathers as an option, but I recommend sticking with Kip). Steve is stamping a serial number in each cover beneath the Gfeller cartouche, a reminder that one is not merely buying a journal cover but also an heirloom in the making.

Little Nemo was a comic that appeared in Sunday papers in the 1930. They are undoubtedly the weirdest, trippiest, most peculiar, inventive and dream-like comics ever. Each page is memorable, a complete dream unto itself. They make R. Crumb and the LSD-laced hippy underground comics seem tame. While several books reprint the entire series, this reproduction retains the comic's original scale, which you really need to fully appreciate the eyeball-slapping impact these masterworks have. It's easily the largest book I own. You COULD slice one of these books up and have 30 exquisitely printed two-side posters to give out.

Vanity postage. This pretty-easy-to-use website will generate official US postage stamps featuring a photo or illustration of your choosing (works well with iPhoto for instance). When the service was first introduced two years ago it was abused by clever pranksters -- my favorite hack was a Unabomber postage stamp. The Post Office shut the program down. The service is available again but I don't know what the actual image limits are (vs. their stated policy). We made some silly faces and they made stamps from them. I've seen them used for wedding/party invitations. You can also put business logos on them, or other non-political messages. The cost is more than twice that of regular stamps (less if you buy them in bulk). A 20-stamp sheet of these makes a nice personal, utilitarian gift.

-- KK

Photostamps
20 stamps, 44 cents
$19
Available from Stamps.com

Two other sites offer a similar service for the same price. They offer mild design differences in the bar coded postage area.
PictureItPostage
Zazzle

For Canadian Postage:
Canada Post Picture Postage

All three of the following English-speaking countries offer a photo stamp on a sheet next to a postage stamp:
For U.K. Postage:
Royal Mail Smilers
For Australian Postage:
Australia Post Personalised Stamps
For New Zealand Postage:
New Zealand Personalised Stamps

I like to clip items from the newspaper or magazines that are relevant to my clients and prospects. This tool makes that task simple - just grip between thumb and forefinger and trace the outline of the article you want to clip - you even leave the underlying pages intact!

I hate struggling with a desktop stapler if there are more than a few sheets of paper involved. Sometimes you really have to pound on it, and the staple may not go all the way through, or it gets bent. This new stapler is supposed to have the power of an electric model, and can go through 25 sheets of paper with a very gentle tap. I was skeptical until I tried a demo, where they had a couple of sheets of thick cardboard a regular stapler would croak on. Effortless, and a perfect staple every time! Makes me almost look forward to paperwork now.

When I saw these in a commercial during the Super Bowl I thought finally, an ad that actually influenced me to buy something.

Mine arrived yesterday from Staples and they are everything I'd hoped they would be. The same great Sharpie ink and point, but no more cap to hold on to or put down and lose or forget about.

What the great engineers at Sanford have done is create a minuscule hinged door that operates entirely within the instrument's barrel, opening and closing like a submarine's hatch.

OK, so I wanted to sit down and workout a grand plan for my new garden, so I figure a pencil and some graph paper is the way forward.

Just finding some simple 2mm graph paper with 1cm semi bold and 2 cm bold turned out to be a near impossible task. Then I discovered the Graph Paper PDF Generator at incompetech.com .

It does plain paper, lined paper, multi width, hexagonal, even semi-bisected trapezoid! All completely customizable. And it's free!

When I was a teenager I remember reading a science-fiction story which predicted that by the 21st century, information would be piped directly into the brain. In this story, a character encountered that most archaic object, an old-fashioned book, and felt appalled that people in the 20th century had been forced to endure so much physical discomfort, holding books and turning their pages manually--or trying to prevent the pages from turning if there was a breeze.

Well, here we are in 2006, and yet another science-fiction prediction has failed to pan out. While we're waiting for wetware implants, we'll just have to make do with a stopgap solution: A plastic thumb aid.

I carry a pen that I wish was more readily available. It's a plastic pen shaped like an airplane that folds flat and sort of clips together to make a sturdy shape. It folds once lengthwise to fit in your wallet. Then, to write with it, you snap little plastic notches together inside so that you have three reinforced surfaces. Now I never need to borrow someone's pen. They're pretty cool. I even bought 48 of them figuring the company would go out of business at some point.

My only problem with the FoldzFlat Pen is that they're totally ugly, produced mainly for little kids. I'm hoping that with the right publicity they will start marketing to the nerd elite.

I love the smooth writing possible with a fine fountain pen. Unfortunately, the massive amounts of liquid ink that make nib pens so luxurious are impossible for me, a left-hander. The key to writing for a lefty is quick-drying ink. I spent years trying to find a way to use a fountain pen that doesn't leave me with an ink-stained hand and an illegible page. Eventually I gave up and began searching for an alternative. Pencils are a nightmare for a lefty, and the goopy ink in most ballpoints just tars the page when my hand sweeps through it. Gel pens produce a fluid line reminiscent of a fountain nib, but stay damp (and therefore messy) for an amazingly long time. In the past I've found the only ink that could dry before my hand could smear it came from fine-pointed rollerballs that scratched out thin lines of ink.

Sanford's Jetstream pens use a unique formulation of gel ink that dries incredibly fast. Write a sentence, then immediately put your pen down and run a finger over your words -- no smear! For the first time in my life I have a pen that lets me concentrate on the words I'm writing and not a blotter or some other device to keep the words legible.

The pens are available in both 1.0 mm and 0.7 mm points. Though I like the result of the 0.7 mm a bit better, after decades of being a bit afraid to use anything but the finest-tipped pens the 1.0 mm feels like a guilty pleasure.

I like using mechanical pencils but their big shortcoming is a tendency for the narrow tip to bend, which makes the lead break prematurely. This is especially a problem if you carry the pencil around; they tend to last much longer if they stay on your desk. Pilot has a mechanical pencil which neatly solves this problem. The tip is retractable, so it is protected when it's in your pocket or your briefcase. It also, as a side benefit, means that it's less likely to poke holes in your clothes. Plus, it's a good looking piece of writing equipment and has a nice heft to it. I've stockpiled spares in case Pilot stops making them, but maybe wider familiarity via Cool Tools will keep them in production. For me, it's essential equipment.

World's thinnest ballpoint pen...thinnest possible lines you could ever write. It's quite fine. It has some sort of special ink for reducing friction so it won't clog. It's not super-flowy like a normal gel pen but it allows you to make sharp and precise short lines, which is what I suspect it was designed to do (i.e. for writing Japanese characters (see circle in picture with writing between lines of text), or alternatively adding fine details into drawings). I think it's pretty cool.

-- Tim Hong

I highly recommend the Brother P-Touch PT-65 for a good labeler. Cheap manual labelers like the trusty Dymo work fine too, but they take more time, are clumsier to use, and produce labels that look, well, homemade. They also don't stick well to many surfaces. The PT-65 prints ink-jet quality on durable plastic labels that stick to most anything. It's quick, easy, idiot-proof, and actually fun to use. Once you pick up one of these, you'll find yourself labelling pretty much everything in sight. At about $30 this is one of the cheapest models around, and it produces professional results. More expensive models are available with more features (fonts, tape sizes, etc.), but for my purposes, all of the extra ornamentation is unnecessary. The PT-65 does the trick every time and actually prints higher quality on less expensive tape than most of the pricier models. The unit is also small, light, and comfortable to hold.

-- Dhiren Patel

We have one of these things. Does wonders. Labelers follow the ink-jet business model. Their profit comes from selling tapes. Not a problem unless you are a big user. You can try a generic brand tape, too.

-- KK

This lovely tool can punch through multiple layers of paper, mat board, etc. It is great for making eyelet holes in fabric as well as leather. Used by book makers and mixed media artists. It is amazing in its ease and is very durable! Earns Extra Foofy Points to be able to say you have a "Japanese Screw Punch."

-- Jane Wynn

The advantage of this tool (sometimes called a Paper Drill) is that unlike your usual plier-like paper punch, this one is not constrained by where you want a hole. You can drill a hole anywhere on any size sheet -- not just the edges -- by bearing down on the handle. To compensate for the lack of leverage you do get in a plier-like punch, the shaft of this screw punch rotates as you press, neatly slicing a trim hole. It will go through 15 pages of paper at once; thicker materials will require multiple passes. It comes with five bits, but the largest one will be smaller than the typical paper punch hole, so I've found more careful alignment is required.

-- KK

Not earth-shattering, but this wallet pen is really handy. I am never without something to write with. The good thing about the pen is that it clips in, so I never have to worry about where I put it.

A pencil can generate megabytes of text, needs no batteries, and has no user manual. It is comfortable to hold, it smells good, and it is relaxing to turn around in your hand as you try to think of the right words. Pencils don't need ink; all they need is a sharpener. They are warm and friendly; they have souls.

I've long been a pencil fan, and, even if I'm writing these words on my iBook, I have several pencils next to me. I use them to doodle and sketch, or to jot down ideas as I brainstorm. Much more than pens, the pencil has character: it comes from nature - from trees and the soil - and it is rooted in the deeper subconscious as a tool that has lasted for some two centuries.

But not just any pencil will do. I've tried out most of the pencils I have come across, and my quest ended when I bought a box of Derwent Graphic pencils, in assorted hardnesses, and eventually discovered the sensual feel of the 3B pencil. The soft lead of the 3B lets me write with no impediments, as the words almost ooze out of my hand. Combined with a yellow legal pad, I can think of no better word processor.

It remains a paper world. Should you ever need to buy a stapler, this is the one to get. By the Archimedean power of levers, one very light push on its head will effortlessly punch a staple through 20 or more sheets. Secures amazingly easily. All staplers should work like this.

It is simply impossible to make a genuine straight, right-angle cut on paper using a scissors, or even a razor blade and straight edge. The old guillotine paper cutter could deliver a clean cut, but at the risk of taking your fingers away. Fiskars, the scissors makers, invented a tiny blade mounted on a hinged holder that zips through material without any possible harm, even to the youngest children. It's fast, accurate, and crisp.

All-around best book for exploring alternative forms of the book. It's aimed at kids, but works for anyone creative.

Ever have an idea in the shower and have no way to record it...and then it's lost forever? I use a "Dive Slate", a small (~4"x6" ) sheet of sturdy white plastic with a plain old fashioned golf pencil attached. They're cheap (around $5-$8), available on the net at various dive shops, fit nicely behind the soap holder or hung in the shower and work well; they're meant to be written on underwater by divers, so unless you shower under Niagara Falls, your thought will be captured until you erase it.

Do you know about those legendary notebooks you can buy at Barnes & Noble as touted by the late author Bruce Chatwin? They come in several sizes; the pocket size (just a tad larger than a 3 x 5 card) is perfect for a breast pocket or cargo pants pocket. The paper is acid free and rich enough to take ink, so you can sketch as well as take notes, but the most useful feature is the elastic band (which is a built in bookmark) that holds the notebook together -- you can stuff business cards, clippings, sketches on napkins between the pages, and the rubberized cloth thing holds them all together until you can find a place for the scraps. I've carried mine literally around the world.

For connoisseurs of handwriting, nothing can beat a fountain pen. Ballpoint pens, while dependable and ultra-cheap, have never been able to match the fluid, graceful beauty of writing with a fountain pen. Regular roller ball tips allow more ink to flow, while better, are still inferior to the easy line that a good fountain or technical pen can lay down. Recently however, cheap gel pens have achieved the dense inking of a fountain pen. In ignorance I had equated gel pens with school girls, ink the color of nail polish, and handwriting marked by i's dotted with little hearts. True enough, but serious gel pens are now available. Tipped off by Phil Agre's research page on "cheap pens" (see below) I began to try out cheap gel pens and have been amazed at how fine they are.

My favorite gel, one that feels like a fountain pen to me, is the horribly named Pilot Dr. Grip Gel. It's a fat pen, with rubbery contoured collar at the writing end, and retractable tip. The ink flows out densely and evenly, with little pressure, exactly when you want it to. There's no leakage or muss or fuss of fountain pen maintenance. The pen glides over the page, leaving a fine line. And its cheap, about $6. I use it all the time now.

My other favorite gel pen replaces a pen-type that most architectural and graphics artist came to adore: the Rotring Rapidograph. This is a technical pen that produces a consistent very fine black line -- perfect for detail and precision drawing. I now use a Pilot P-500 (Extra Fine) G2 Gel, with a needlepoint tip. Unlike the old Rapidigraph, it won't clog, doesn't need periodic cleaning, can't dry up, can be retracted to fit in your pocket (Q-7 version), and is cheap -- $2. It inks as well or better as the Rapidigraph -- but it is not waterproof, which may make a difference for some artists. (I have not used newer Rapidograph models, which claim to be clog-free, but are still expensive.) The retractable version, Pilot Q-7 Needlepoint Gel, also sports a fat fatigue-free grip.

Pilot Q-7 Retractable Gel Needle Point

Devout fountain pen lovers will still find fault in the gel pens, but most of us will find their convenience and bargain price makes them the pen to use. If you know of better cheap great gel pens, let me know.

Two rotating wheels slice paper the way an open scissors does occasionally. Absolutely marvelous for cutting wrapping paper or making lots of long cuts. Also great for kids who don't quite have the coordination to use scissors well. We keep ours in the gift wrap box.

You razor-cut things on this mat, and unlike other materials it won't accumulate a field of cut marks to misguide your blade. The self-healing rubber keeps the surface uniformly smooth, clean, and firm. And protects your table. Get the largest one you have room for and can afford. A large mat also says: don't pile stuff here.

My Saunders aluminum clipboard portfolio is the best personal organization investment I've ever made. It looks great, and for anyone who regularly carries a messenger bag or briefcase, this little thing is a godsend. It's the size of a legal pad, and just as thin, but it provides a fantastic place to store and protect the various pieces of paper I want to keep close at hand. (At the moment, mine contains an itinerary for a flight I'm taking in two weeks, a construction contract I need to sign, a guest list for my wedding, and a manuscript I'll edit tonight.) It even has a place to store a pen beneath the clipboard clip.

I've been using my portfolio nonstop for four years, and it's virtually indestructible. (Saunders makes the aluminum clipboards used by police and building contractors.) The outside of mine has acquired plenty of scratches and battle scars, but the inside still looks like new, and my papers stay undamaged and uncrumpled, even after months of shuttling from my house, to my messenger bag, to my office, to my car, to anywhere else I might wander. And for just ~$18, it's a bargain! Saunders makes a variety of other aluminum form holders, including the cop-friendly "Cruiser Mates."

The Metallic Sharpie is a vast improvement over other metallic pens out there -- no shaking the pen before use, and the ink doesn't puddle up. It dries permanent and shows up great on dark surfaces as well as light ones. It became favorite art tool in my arsenal when I was able to write a friends phone number on a freshly opened, ice-cold beer bottle. Seconds after jotting the number, it was indelible. I try to take it everywhere -- it's good for men's room graffiti, VHS tapes, I even labeled various keys on my key ring. You can get metallic sharpies at Staples or Office Max.

--Chris Sperandio

There's almost no other way to easily write on slippery surfaces. The metallic sharpie uses silver ink, which has remarkable contrast against both light and dark surfaces. For writing on black plastic or enamel (there is more of it around than you think) nothing else will do.

--KK

This is the serious industrial strength stuff that librarians use. Vastly better than the consumer-oriented lightweight and fussy stuff others offer.

I buy my favorite journals (acid-free journal 8-1/2x11 cat. no. 678-0004) from them -- have been using them since 1993 and have found none better. But I also buy tons of other supplies from them regularly, including:
* Monel metal staples (won't rust, ever)
* acid-free boxes for slides and photos
* archival corrosion-intercept zip-lok bags for metal artifacts (item 034-8010-10)
* small Poly zipper bags (500-2030) -- they have every size you could want, useful for endless stuff around the house and while backpacking

The best source for archival storage aids. If it's flat and analog, Light Impressions can help. I finally got my 10,000 Kodak slides organized in their fantastic slide cabinets. Beginning with photographs (hardest to keep stable), and ending with archival materials and presentations for old magazines, scrapbooks, papers, and prints. Future generations will thank you.